Special occasion dress
Kiki Repko
Havelock North High School
Year 13 Technology
Teacher: Carol Rimmer
Kiki's client, her mother Heidi, needed a new outfit to wear to two special occasions – a wedding and a family birthday. This project, however, would involve a lot more than designing a fashionable outfit. Kiki's family was still in a state of shock since Heidi had been diagnosed with cancer and was supporting her as she underwent treatment for the disease. Heidi needed a new garment because her body had changed as a result of her illness and consequent surgery and treatment, and she had nothing appropriate to wear at either event.
Kiki wanted to fully understand the special requirements in designing for her client and researched the medical and social effects of cancer. She considered the physical effects of undergoing surgery and the challenge of such invasive treatment, the effects of radiation and chemotherapy, and the subsequent body changes and hair loss.
Kiki also looked at the social aspects of a disease like cancer – how her mother had to adjust to new environments, people and personal issues while dealing with social expectations about her condition and other people's feelings of discomfort. Heidi was planning to attend a Cancer Society 'Look good, feel better' workshop so Kiki investigated this campaign and how the concept directly fitted into her brief.
Having gained a deeper understanding of the physical and social effects of cancer, Kiki felt better able to attend to Heidi's needs and more sensitive about the psychological impact on her client. She then looked into the birthday venue, a formal restaurant, and discussed the style of the wedding with the bride and groom, to determine the type of clothing appropriate for both occasions.
Kiki discussed style concepts with Heidi and researched the designer she is particularly inspired by – New Zealander Annah Stretton. Kiki looked at the background and reasoning behind Annah's styles and adopted some of her processes to direct her own technological practice, for example, carrying a notebook around with her so that she can transfer ideas to paper as soon as she thinks of different design possibilities. Heidi also admires Art Deco styles, so Kiki did some detailed research into the designs from this era.
Taking her client's preferences into account, Kiki looked at high fashion designs and considered which aspects would best suit her. She decided to base the outfit on a shift dress, a garment that suits women of medium build as it minimises curves and gives a structured look. Kiki designed around the visible effects of the cancer treatment, such as ensuring that the neckline didn't expose scar tissue or skin discolouration caused by radiation. This would make her mother feel more comfortable and the people around her less awkward.
Kiki also looked at how different fabrics and patterns might affect her client's 'look', and colour combinations which would complement her skin tone, eye and hair colour, while giving the sophisticated effect she wanted. She decided to make the dress in rayon brocade in toning colours (cream and gold) with contrasting patterns and textures. Kiki developed her own pattern for the dress and constructed a tailored, fully lined outfit.
Planning was a vital component of this project – Heidi was away from home much of the time so was only available for consultation at weekends. Kiki had to ensure that key information was prepared to allow her maximum use of this time but, with careful planning and sensible allocation of time limits for each stage, she was able to work at a steady pace. She says that it was good motivation having a goal to aim for by the end of each week.
Heidi wore her new outfit to the wedding and birthday and says that she felt comfortable wearing it in public, and that not only did it make her look good but that she felt better about herself as she got "rave" remarks about it. People admired the fit of the dress, the high quality of the tailoring and how well the colours complemented her appearance, and she says she was proud to reveal that her daughter had designed and manufactured the garment.
Teacher comment
This was a very special project as it highlighted the very special relationship between Heidi and Kiki. Kiki had to take a step back and consider all the issues around her mother's health as well as her own commitment to her final year at school. Kiki's project management and her sensitivity to Heidi's stages of recovery were exemplary. Kiki is currently studying design at Massey University School of Design, Wellington, and Heidi herself has been developing and producing her own designs. It was such a pleasure to work with them both.
