COP Outcome development and evaluation

Often an original drawing changes in the technical pattern making process and/or when the sample garment is produced due mainly to the final choice of fabric and how the fabric takes up the design features.

Andrea and her colleagues are becoming more and more aware of the fabric. For example with silk chiffon it's difficult to sew so designs have as few seams as possible. There are technical issues associated with getting into garments and what fastenings will work; it is advisable not to put a zip or buttons into the design. Silk chiffon drapes well on the bias and if not sewn skilfully it stretches very easily causing unacceptable results. So all these things have to be considered –it is a continuous learning curve/experience.

Some design ideas have to be scrapped. One dress in the Spring 2002 range was to have a dart design feature around the bust but the effect envisaged just couldn't be achieved so the particular design feature was replaced with a more simple version of the same style detail. “So," says Andrea, “we do that sometimes or we persevere because we know it's going to work and spend a lot more time on it." Cost is not taken into account, if the garment carries its price point there is no need to worry as people will buy it because it's different.

At Andrea Moore Design they try to make the sketch the reality, as that is the most efficient way of working. However, there are times when the imagined idea, has to be altered once the proportions of the garment are seen in reality at the calico stage or even at sample garment stage. Sometimes a more exciting design effect happens at the patternmaking stage and/or when fitting. Experience and technical expertise is the answer to knowing that the design idea will work in 3D and also that the fabric will hold the design. Andrea knows she is getting better and better at achieving the desired effect but there are just some situations when what you draw and what you patternmake and the end result are quite different from the original drawn sketch.

Production issues

The main production issues are fabric delivery ie getting the fabric on time, and quality of workmanship by the CMT manufacturers. A lot of the CMT people use outworkers and their quality is not always satisfactory so quality is an issue all the time. Although Andrea Moore Design has now identified some first rate CMT outlets the company has a very low threshold for mistakes for example, if the hems are not straight they go back. Andrea Moore Design quality is very high. The despatch and courier service is most acceptable.

A late fabric delivery could be as a result of:

• Europe going on holiday for a month in August (northern hemisphere Summer);
• A temporary cash flow situation due to debtors' unpaid invoices therefore not enough funds for a telegraphic transfer to get the fabric out here in time;
• Fabric wholesalers have sold too much therefore an under supply occurs so you don't receive your bulk order as it's already sold.